[DRLOWZ]

It was kind of a gloomy day today, so I did not get to look at the cap.

What is the deal with the flashlight?

What am I looking for?

[alaskan_og]

Sorry your day was GLOOOOOOMY
As per your question on the flashlight here is why.
I would look at the inside of the distributor cap by simply leaving all the spark plug wires attached, so you disconnect the cap from the distributor, with one hand turn the cap towards you, with the other hand use the flash light to get a GOOD look at those six contacts I had mentioned earlier.
Usually it may be a bit hard to see what I'm asking you to look for unless you took the whole thing off, then it is just as easy to replace it.

As many other of my fellow low riders in this forum, I consider myself quite mechanically inclined. If you looked at the pictures I sent you, you can see by my engine compartment I'M NO JOKE!
I relax by building motors, custom low rider race motors.
I can easily shoot a whole lot of fix this or try that but thats not me...
I really want to help you're lack of power and would even consider giving you call if you would e-mail your phone number. There is a lot may be this or may be that, but from my experience you can waste hundreds of dollars only to find out some $10.00 or $20.00 part was the whole issue.

On another note; if it has been quite a while since it had a major tune up it may be time or past due to have her a tuned up anyways.

I know a lot of little tricks to get horse power out of an older original motor.
One is change the original air filter.
A simple vacuum advance kit does wonders.
Using "Taylor Made" spark plug wires and finding the longest wire and cutting all of the wires the same length.
The carberator is an obvious issue. You would be surprised what hydros do to carbs if your hoppin. So some attention needs to be here also.
I can go on and on.
But first lets see whats in the cap?
Look forward really helping you get some power for you T-Bird.
Unless you've got Major motor problems (it don't sound like it) I don't see any problem getting you car to smoke them 13" 100 spoke rims with out any problem.
Talk to ya soon.

[DRLOWZ]

If I have time I am going to look at the cap and see what I see....May be I need to change them plugs too,,, Any suggestions on name brand?

[alaskan_og]

When it comes to oil they are all the same just different plastic jugs.
When it come to distributor caps buying any after market you take a small risk of buying one with an imperfection or hair line crack that will cause a car miss.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR;What ever car you are working on the manufactures parts are always best but real spendy. In your case Ford Genuine Parts are always nice but spendy, depending on your path you chose either a Ford dealer($$) OR any NAPA will suffice for the cap and rotor.

PLUGS; Are a different ball of wax! If you don't intend to change the plugs every 3000- 7000 miles I would highly suggest a Platnuim Plug. If your going to change frequently all the brand name are fine,
(you can't get horse power out of a plug only the longevity of it!)
But if you want to not have to fool with again for awhile, (especially if a few of them are a B_ _ _ _ H to get too) then spend the $10.00 a plug for the Platnuim.

The next issue I must say is the wires.
If for example if they APPEAR nice, that can be an illusion. If they are original from 83 toss them. Or if they have been sitting on the exhuast manifold for a long time then the arc from the ignition spark will ruin them and you'll lose horse power. Also if they are the thinner wires NON silicone and the wires are touching each other the same calamity can happen, loss of power and bad, brittle wires.
One really easy way to find out is go to an EXTREME DARK PLACE, NO MOON LIGHT, NO STREET LIGHTS FOR MILES, and open your hood, have someone step on the gas as you watch inside. If you have bad miss firing you can't miss the blue light where your losing ignition spark grounding out somewhere from the spark plug wires.
So time needs to spent on installing new wires PROPERLY. If you want I can easily walk you through it when your ready.

[DRLOWZ]

So far your help has been astranaumical, my next question is:

What is the correct way to set the timing?
What is 10 degrees advanced and all that stuff?

Thanks Marco....


Dennis

[alaskan_og]

Thanks for the compliment, it's humbly appreciated
Now for the timing, I would need to share this as if I were doing the work on my own car.
First all the previous items I mentioned would need to be completed, and fine tuned. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, condensor, filters, oil filter and oil change. ( the reason for the oil is viscosity break down, cars need to tuned at operating temperatures) Next item after these(BEFORE TIMING) IS CARBERATOR. After all these items have been done the car needs be completed warmed up, water thermostat opened and engine is at your crusin temperature. Then with the information you have given me about your T-Bird I would carb clean inside. This would involve a simple process. 1) Have a fire extinguisher and a can of Carberator cleaner (I have never had a problem but it is gas we are dealing with.better safe than sorry right.) 2) With the car warmed up, take of the air cleaner off and expose the carbs intake. 3) Next is to locate the accelerator cable and pull on it just as if you were stepping on the gas pedal. 4) Now were ready to clean the jets and intake. 5) With out sticking your face directely in the carb, with one hand on the accelerator cable and the other holding the spray can of carb cleaner ( DO USE THE TINY PLASTIC FLOW EXTIONSION TAPED TO THE SIDE, THIS ALLOWS MORE CONTROLABILITY AND HIGHER PRESSURE VOLUME). 6) Now the fun part, as you begin to spray the cleaner inside you have keep the engine from stalling by BY PULLING THE ACCELERATOR AS IS YOUR FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL.(THIS IS VITAL) As you spray the cleaner in and floor the gas build can pass through and not sit in the same spot or just move somewhere else in the carb.
HEADS UP:::: YES IT IS MUCH BETTER TO REBUILD A CARB...
However, We are backyard mechanic cleaning here.
So back to the cleaning PROCESS. As you keep repeating the process, I usually go like this, spray the cleaner for about 2-3 seconds accelerate the gas and blow that stuff out, then idle the engine for about 10 seconds, then rev the engine a bit and start all over. I usually and systematically make sure I get every angle inside the carb. This takes about half a can. Then for the remaining fluid in the can I use to clean the outside of the throttle body. This has a two fold reasoning. The first is to clean all the likage and air/fuel mixture screws. The second reason is IF YOU HAVE ANY BAD LEAKS WHEN YOU SPRAY THE OUTSIDE OF THE CARB THE BAD LEAK WILL SUCK IN THE CLEANER AND YOU OBIVIOUSLY HEAR YOUR IDLE CHANGE. (IF THIS DOES HAPPEN THEN WE KNOW WHERE ONE OF THE LOSSES OF HORSE POWER IS AT!!!!)
DOOOOOO NOOOOT MESS WITH THE ENGINES TIMING. AT LEASTE NOT YET YOU CAN CAUSE YOUR CAR TO OVERHEAT AND POSSIBLY BLOW A HEAD GASKET IN THE PROCESS.
There is so many items to fine tune first!

[DRLOWZ]

Sounds like I need to get some things together and get started here:


PLUGS
WIRES
CAP
ROTOR BUTTON
CARB CLEANER
OIL CHANGE
PCV VALVE
AIR FILTER

Did I miss anything?

[-Kev-]

Might want to include a fuel filter while your at it.

[DRLOWZ]

Marco,

I did the tune-up finally. Added Bosch platinum plugs, new wires, which 2 of the old ones were fried, one was laying right on the exhaust pipes, new rotor button, and new distributor cap. I see much improvement. I also sprayed down the carb with cleaner, inside and out.....

Now my next task, my passing gear is, uummmmmmmm, not kicking in as fast as I would like it to, kinda like a dead spot in the acceleration.......

Any thoughts?

[alaskan_og]

Ah ha yes...
DR, the dead passing gear. Well a number of things.
If memory serves me correct, your T-Bird does have the 2 barrel RIGHT?
Then...
1. A vacuum leak from the intake manifold to the tranny...
2. An air fuel mixture issue...
3. The RPMs at which you are traveling may be extremely faster then the spedo says because of 13" rims and tires and it's about maxed out.

Start with telling me IF it will immediately kick in going 10mph, 20 mph, 30 mph etc, etc, then lets see where the problem begins or if it is constant?
Okay
Keep me posted