[DRLOWZ]

Despite the best planning, something inevitably goes wrong with the complex workings of a hydraulic system in your lowrider. Trouble shooting can be broken down into 5 basic categories:

1. SOLENOID FAILURE - A bad solenoid can cause a motor to act like it is dead, so solenoids should be checked first before discarding the motor. Sometimes a direct contact with the battery will verify motor failure.

2. MOTOR FAILURE - If the motor has failed, there might be too much voltage going to one motor causing it to it to run hot. Using high voltage systems isn't the only way to hop up a system. A perfect balance between voltage and line pressure can produce a cooler running, more efficient system.

3. PUMP HEAD FAILURE - Head failure occurs when there is excess voltage. It is necessary to prime the system with 12 volts a few times using 20 or 10/40 weight hydraulic or non-detergent motor oil before increasing voltage.

4. DUMP & CHECK-VALVE FAILURE - Dumps or check-valves can fail in 2 ways; the system will drop pressure very slowly or the system will drop very quickly. If it drops slowly, standard procedure is to close the needle valve to see if it stops the system from depressurizing. If it still leaks down, the check valve might be at fault. A slow line leak can also cause a system to leak down like a check valve failure. If the system leaks down quickly, the same procedure should be followed with the check valve. If the system stays pressurized when the needle valve is closed, open the needle valve. If it still drops down, then it might be the dump. O-rings and cartridges should also be checked.

5. DUMP FAILURE - Dump failure can occur from inadequate or excess voltage or shorting out of a control switch. Solenoids are rated at 12 volts, so they can burn out if a switch remains in the "on" position for too long in a 24-volt system. A short in the secondary wiring circuit can also cause dumps to fail. No more than 24 volts should be coming into any one-dump solenoid. A dump can be checked with a direct 24-volt source from 2 batteries hooked up in series.

EXTRA TIPS
It is recommended to reinforce main brackets on most vehicles for cylinder support and stress points, bottom cups to keep coils in place, battery racks and pump brackets to be welded onto the frame if possible for a good ground. To keep hoses and wires away from sharp edges use the proper coil spring for a better ride.

[haze1995]

good advice, thanks!

[phill]

hey guys, i got a problem with my 2 pump 4 silanoid showtime hydraulics, im new to this so keep with me. someone had broken into my car overnight and hit some switches and left the car up.. when i poped the trunk i found a battery had melted, after i replaced the battery with a brand new one, my car still wont go up over 4 inches on front and back, it go's up and then it bogs to a stop, sounds like my motor is trying to spin the pump, but no go, dose anybody please have any suggestions on troubleshooting. ?
cheers

[DRLOWZ]

Does the motor still spin when it is bogging down....if not it sounds like you have more than one bad battery....try giving the whole setup a fresh charge and get back with us...

[lowlowfoshow2005]

Originally Posted by phill

hey guys, i got a problem with my 2 pump 4 silanoid showtime hydraulics, im new to this so keep with me. someone had broken into my car overnight and hit some switches and left the car up.. when i poped the trunk i found a battery had melted, after i replaced the battery with a brand new one, my car still wont go up over 4 inches on front and back, it go's up and then it bogs to a stop, sounds like my motor is trying to spin the pump, but no go, dose anybody please have any suggestions on troubleshooting. ?
cheers

if drlowz sugg doesnt help see id a dump is stuck open,and make sure your tanks are full of fluid when its laid out.that sounds like a dump solenoid stuck,if it isnt the obvious voltage problem.if it sounds like the motors are spinning fast id say its a dump.if its quackin' like donald duck its low on fluid.usually if you have a voltage problem your power solenoids will click and quack too........

[SIK_9D1]

Sounds like the seals in the pump head might be blown out. So when you are hitting the switch its not building any pressure.

[Miser211]

Originally Posted by phill

hey guys, i got a problem with my 2 pump 4 silanoid showtime hydraulics, im new to this so keep with me. someone had broken into my car overnight and hit some switches and left the car up.. when i poped the trunk i found a battery had melted, after i replaced the battery with a brand new one, my car still wont go up over 4 inches on front and back, it go's up and then it bogs to a stop, sounds like my motor is trying to spin the pump, but no go, dose anybody please have any suggestions on troubleshooting. ?
cheers

sounds like batts. Take them to a batt shop and have them tested with a hydometer or some have a digital tester. If they are good take the pump apart and do a complete inspection of everything for blown out seals. Could be that if someone overlocked it on purpose to blow your seals out.

[Miser211]

almost forgot if it is your batts I would change out those noids or at least check them out with a multimeter

[phill]

alright guys, i have tested my batteries and all show good. but still it sounds like the motor is moveing quick so it has enough volts.. i will check my silenoides with my volt meter, is there any stats for that guys.?after it gets to the four inches, the moter bogs under the load from the pump. im scared it the pumps... what yah think.?is there rebuild kits for the pumps.?
cheers and thanks alot for the help everyone
Phill @ canada/trying to legalize the life of ridaz

[SIK_9D1]

Its sounds like its gonna be the seals in the pump head like i mentioned earlier.