[lil6yplayboy]

Okay my driveshat was shortened 1 inch and and trailing arms extended 1 1/2 its locking up at the ujoint and driveshat when raised fully anny suggestions, should i extend trailing arms more?

also should i add chains?

okay also when i try to power brake it the front just slides? any clues?

It has a total reinforced job...almost complete frame wrap, but it seems like the car weighs a shit load and lost a lot of power any clues?

i'm running 14x6 front and back

[DRLOWZ]

Originally Posted by lil6yplayboy

Okay my driveshat was shortened 1 inch and and trailing arms extended 1 1/2 its locking up at the ujoint and driveshat when raised fully anny suggestions, should i extend trailing arms more?

also should i add chains?

Yes, I believe if you add the chains, this will keep it from locking out to hi.

Originally Posted by lil6yplayboy

okay also when i try to power brake it the front just slides? any clues?

That is due to the juice, if you are trying to smoke some tires, try dropping a front corner a bit to see if that will smoke the opposite rear tire?

Originally Posted by lil6yplayboy

It has a total reinforced job...almost complete frame wrap, but it seems like the car weighs a shit load and lost a lot of power any clues?

You got me on that one, possibly a tune up is in order?

i'm running 14x6 front and back

[rlowride]

you will have lost power.. the added weight has a direct effect on that....also the smaller diameter wheels will cause the engine to rev higher at slower speeds...

to chain out the car..... lift the beck up with a jack,,, as soon as the wheels start to leave the ground, thats how long you want the chains to be,,,
put chain boxes on your axle, just away from the pumpkin... and a single box, straight up from the pumpkin
this should solve it all....

[lil6yplayboy]

yeah i kinda fig it was a wqeight issue....motor is very good and running order fresh tuneup...

i'll try on tires dennis...

rick i knew how to do the chains.......just wondering if i should put some on or not for better 3....

how would i fix the locking up part without chains....like i mentioned ^or ?.....cause i like raising back up full steer ahead

[rlowride]

not sure....
shorter cylinders?

the lonas i know dont like chains......
but with chains, you can put the ole 16 inch cylinder in there, lock that bitch out at 8 or so inches....

the "full steer ahead" when you 3.......

[lil6yplayboy]

Lonas where are ya..

[Cadillac Bob]

Well, I went through hell with the rear end of my Fleetwood before I gutted everything under the ass and rebuilt it from scratch. Because the lower trailing arms are longer than those on a g-body, the suspension geometry gets really fucked up on those caddies with tall strokes. Running anything taller than a 12'' gets a little hairy. You might be able to get away with 14''s, but thats pushing it.

I guess the question is, what are you looking to do with the car? If you want a high 3 wheel, I say stick with the 14''s and chain it. The chains will limit the lockup height of the ass and prevent those pinion problems, but still allow each individual rear cylinder to extend longer for a higher 3. Not to mention a bridge gives you that much more structural reinforcement on the frame.

One thing I would definately suggest though, is getting a custom driveshaft. Even with that driveshaft shortened an inch, with 14'' stokes back there I guarantee your driveshaft is forcing hard into the trans tailpiece, and that can cause u-joint binding problems also. I am running a custom shaft from Arizona Drivelines (cost me about $550) that has a 16'' slipyoke eliminator, and a CV type rear, rather than the stock u-joints. That keeps my drveshaft from pushing into the trans, and the CV setup allows for a steeper pinion angle. Granted I have a custom 4 link under my car, but it drives just fine with 18'' cylinders fully up or down, and I wasnt able to do that with my stock shaft.

[lil6yplayboy]

Originally Posted by Cadillac Bob

Well, I went through hell with the rear end of my Fleetwood before I gutted everything under the ass and rebuilt it from scratch. Because the lower trailing arms are longer than those on a g-body, the suspension geometry gets really fucked up on those caddies with tall strokes. Running anything taller than a 12'' gets a little hairy. You might be able to get away with 14''s, but thats pushing it.

I guess the question is, what are you looking to do with the car? If you want a high 3 wheel, I say stick with the 14''s and chain it. The chains will limit the lockup height of the ass and prevent those pinion problems, but still allow each individual rear cylinder to extend longer for a higher 3. Not to mention a bridge gives you that much more structural reinforcement on the frame.

One thing I would definately suggest though, is getting a custom driveshaft. Even with that driveshaft shortened an inch, with 14'' stokes back there I guarantee your driveshaft is forcing hard into the trans tailpiece, and that can cause u-joint binding problems also. I am running a custom shaft from Arizona Drivelines (cost me about $550) that has a 16'' slipyoke eliminator, and a CV type rear, rather than the stock u-joints. That keeps my drveshaft from pushing into the trans, and the CV setup allows for a steeper pinion angle. Granted I have a custom 4 link under my car, but it drives just fine with 18'' cylinders fully up or down, and I wasnt able to do that with my stock shaft.

Thanks for coming over to the boards and answering this for me like i had asked...

[rag 63]

i emailed you rich. let me know if you have any more problems. Tim

[lil6yplayboy]

i dont think i have ever recieved it could you answer them and send again please..Thanks for the customer support Tim, you guys have been the best....