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DRLOWZ · 12-29-2007, 12:19 PM

Despite the best planning, something inevitably goes wrong with the complex workings of a hydraulic system in your lowrider. Trouble shooting can be broken down into 5 basic categories:

1. SOLENOID FAILURE - A bad solenoid can cause a motor to act like it is dead, so solenoids should be checked first before discarding the motor. Sometimes a direct contact with the battery will verify motor failure.

2. MOTOR FAILURE - If the motor has failed, there might be too much voltage going to one motor causing it to it to run hot. Using high voltage systems isn't the only way to hop up a system. A perfect balance between voltage and line pressure can produce a cooler running, more efficient system.

3. PUMP HEAD FAILURE - Head failure occurs when there is excess voltage. It is necessary to prime the system with 12 volts a few times using 20 or 10/40 weight hydraulic or non-detergent motor oil before increasing voltage.

4. DUMP & CHECK-VALVE FAILURE - Dumps or check-valves can fail in 2 ways; the system will drop pressure very slowly or the system will drop very quickly. If it drops slowly, standard procedure is to close the needle valve to see if it stops the system from depressurizing. If it still leaks down, the check valve might be at fault. A slow line leak can also cause a system to leak down like a check valve failure. If the system leaks down quickly, the same procedure should be followed with the check valve. If the system stays pressurized when the needle valve is closed, open the needle valve. If it still drops down, then it might be the dump. O-rings and cartridges should also be checked.

5. DUMP FAILURE - Dump failure can occur from inadequate or excess voltage or shorting out of a control switch. Solenoids are rated at 12 volts, so they can burn out if a switch remains in the "on" position for too long in a 24-volt system. A short in the secondary wiring circuit can also cause dumps to fail. No more than 24 volts should be coming into any one-dump solenoid. A dump can be checked with a direct 24-volt source from 2 batteries hooked up in series.

EXTRA TIPS
It is recommended to reinforce main brackets on most vehicles for cylinder support and stress points, bottom cups to keep coils in place, battery racks and pump brackets to be welded onto the frame if possible for a good ground. To keep hoses and wires away from sharp edges use the proper coil spring for a better ride.

12-29-2007, 12:19 PM	#1 (permalink)
DRLOWZ Administrator Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bardstown,Kentucky Posts: 5,300	Hydraulic Troubleshooting Despite the best planning, something inevitably goes wrong with the complex workings of a hydraulic system in your lowrider. Trouble shooting can be broken down into 5 basic categories: 1. SOLENOID FAILURE - A bad solenoid can cause a motor to act like it is dead, so solenoids should be checked first before discarding the motor. Sometimes a direct contact with the battery will verify motor failure. 2. MOTOR FAILURE - If the motor has failed, there might be too much voltage going to one motor causing it to it to run hot. Using high voltage systems isn't the only way to hop up a system. A perfect balance between voltage and line pressure can produce a cooler running, more efficient system. 3. PUMP HEAD FAILURE - Head failure occurs when there is excess voltage. It is necessary to prime the system with 12 volts a few times using 20 or 10/40 weight hydraulic or non-detergent motor oil before increasing voltage. 4. DUMP & CHECK-VALVE FAILURE - Dumps or check-valves can fail in 2 ways; the system will drop pressure very slowly or the system will drop very quickly. If it drops slowly, standard procedure is to close the needle valve to see if it stops the system from depressurizing. If it still leaks down, the check valve might be at fault. A slow line leak can also cause a system to leak down like a check valve failure. If the system leaks down quickly, the same procedure should be followed with the check valve. If the system stays pressurized when the needle valve is closed, open the needle valve. If it still drops down, then it might be the dump. O-rings and cartridges should also be checked. 5. DUMP FAILURE - Dump failure can occur from inadequate or excess voltage or shorting out of a control switch. Solenoids are rated at 12 volts, so they can burn out if a switch remains in the "on" position for too long in a 24-volt system. A short in the secondary wiring circuit can also cause dumps to fail. No more than 24 volts should be coming into any one-dump solenoid. A dump can be checked with a direct 24-volt source from 2 batteries hooked up in series. EXTRA TIPS It is recommended to reinforce main brackets on most vehicles for cylinder support and stress points, bottom cups to keep coils in place, battery racks and pump brackets to be welded onto the frame if possible for a good ground. To keep hoses and wires away from sharp edges use the proper coil spring for a better ride.