[lil6yplayboy]

Originally Posted by Cadillac Bob

Well, I went through hell with the rear end of my Fleetwood before I gutted everything under the ass and rebuilt it from scratch. Because the lower trailing arms are longer than those on a g-body, the suspension geometry gets really fucked up on those caddies with tall strokes. Running anything taller than a 12'' gets a little hairy. You might be able to get away with 14''s, but thats pushing it.

I guess the question is, what are you looking to do with the car? If you want a high 3 wheel, I say stick with the 14''s and chain it. The chains will limit the lockup height of the ass and prevent those pinion problems, but still allow each individual rear cylinder to extend longer for a higher 3. Not to mention a bridge gives you that much more structural reinforcement on the frame.

One thing I would definately suggest though, is getting a custom driveshaft. Even with that driveshaft shortened an inch, with 14'' stokes back there I guarantee your driveshaft is forcing hard into the trans tailpiece, and that can cause u-joint binding problems also. I am running a custom shaft from Arizona Drivelines (cost me about $550) that has a 16'' slipyoke eliminator, and a CV type rear, rather than the stock u-joints. That keeps my drveshaft from pushing into the trans, and the CV setup allows for a steeper pinion angle. Granted I have a custom 4 link under my car, but it drives just fine with 18'' cylinders fully up or down, and I wasnt able to do that with my stock shaft.

Thanks for coming over to the boards and answering this for me like i had asked...