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alaskan_og · 05-18-2003, 12:51 PM

Thanks for the compliment, it's humbly appreciated

Now for the timing, I would need to share this as if I were doing the work on my own car.
First all the previous items I mentioned would need to be completed, and fine tuned. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, condensor, filters, oil filter and oil change. ( the reason for the oil is viscosity break down, cars need to tuned at operating temperatures) Next item after these(BEFORE TIMING) IS CARBERATOR. After all these items have been done the car needs be completed warmed up, water thermostat opened and engine is at your crusin temperature. Then with the information you have given me about your T-Bird I would carb clean inside. This would involve a simple process. 1) Have a fire extinguisher and a can of Carberator cleaner (I have never had a problem but it is gas we are dealing with.better safe than sorry right.) 2) With the car warmed up, take of the air cleaner off and expose the carbs intake. 3) Next is to locate the accelerator cable and pull on it just as if you were stepping on the gas pedal. 4) Now were ready to clean the jets and intake. 5) With out sticking your face directely in the carb, with one hand on the accelerator cable and the other holding the spray can of carb cleaner ( DO USE THE TINY PLASTIC FLOW EXTIONSION TAPED TO THE SIDE, THIS ALLOWS MORE CONTROLABILITY AND HIGHER PRESSURE VOLUME). 6) Now the fun part, as you begin to spray the cleaner inside you have keep the engine from stalling by BY PULLING THE ACCELERATOR AS IS YOUR FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL.(THIS IS VITAL) As you spray the cleaner in and floor the gas build can pass through and not sit in the same spot or just move somewhere else in the carb.
HEADS UP:::: YES IT IS MUCH BETTER TO REBUILD A CARB...
However, We are backyard mechanic cleaning here.
So back to the cleaning PROCESS. As you keep repeating the process, I usually go like this, spray the cleaner for about 2-3 seconds accelerate the gas and blow that stuff out, then idle the engine for about 10 seconds, then rev the engine a bit and start all over. I usually and systematically make sure I get every angle inside the carb. This takes about half a can. Then for the remaining fluid in the can I use to clean the outside of the throttle body. This has a two fold reasoning. The first is to clean all the likage and air/fuel mixture screws. The second reason is IF YOU HAVE ANY BAD LEAKS WHEN YOU SPRAY THE OUTSIDE OF THE CARB THE BAD LEAK WILL SUCK IN THE CLEANER AND YOU OBIVIOUSLY HEAR YOUR IDLE CHANGE. (IF THIS DOES HAPPEN THEN WE KNOW WHERE ONE OF THE LOSSES OF HORSE POWER IS AT!!!!)
DOOOOOO NOOOOT MESS WITH THE ENGINES TIMING. AT LEASTE NOT YET YOU CAN CAUSE YOUR CAR TO OVERHEAT AND POSSIBLY BLOW A HEAD GASKET IN THE PROCESS.
There is so many items to fine tune first!

05-18-2003, 12:51 PM	#16 (permalink)
alaskan_og Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Now live in "SITKA" South Side Alaska Posts: 225	PROPER TIMING! Thanks for the compliment, it's humbly appreciated Now for the timing, I would need to share this as if I were doing the work on my own car. First all the previous items I mentioned would need to be completed, and fine tuned. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, condensor, filters, oil filter and oil change. ( the reason for the oil is viscosity break down, cars need to tuned at operating temperatures) Next item after these(BEFORE TIMING) IS CARBERATOR. After all these items have been done the car needs be completed warmed up, water thermostat opened and engine is at your crusin temperature. Then with the information you have given me about your T-Bird I would carb clean inside. This would involve a simple process. 1) Have a fire extinguisher and a can of Carberator cleaner (I have never had a problem but it is gas we are dealing with.better safe than sorry right.) 2) With the car warmed up, take of the air cleaner off and expose the carbs intake. 3) Next is to locate the accelerator cable and pull on it just as if you were stepping on the gas pedal. 4) Now were ready to clean the jets and intake. 5) With out sticking your face directely in the carb, with one hand on the accelerator cable and the other holding the spray can of carb cleaner ( DO USE THE TINY PLASTIC FLOW EXTIONSION TAPED TO THE SIDE, THIS ALLOWS MORE CONTROLABILITY AND HIGHER PRESSURE VOLUME). 6) Now the fun part, as you begin to spray the cleaner inside you have keep the engine from stalling by BY PULLING THE ACCELERATOR AS IS YOUR FLOORING THE GAS PEDAL.(THIS IS VITAL) As you spray the cleaner in and floor the gas build can pass through and not sit in the same spot or just move somewhere else in the carb. HEADS UP:::: YES IT IS MUCH BETTER TO REBUILD A CARB... However, We are backyard mechanic cleaning here. So back to the cleaning PROCESS. As you keep repeating the process, I usually go like this, spray the cleaner for about 2-3 seconds accelerate the gas and blow that stuff out, then idle the engine for about 10 seconds, then rev the engine a bit and start all over. I usually and systematically make sure I get every angle inside the carb. This takes about half a can. Then for the remaining fluid in the can I use to clean the outside of the throttle body. This has a two fold reasoning. The first is to clean all the likage and air/fuel mixture screws. The second reason is IF YOU HAVE ANY BAD LEAKS WHEN YOU SPRAY THE OUTSIDE OF THE CARB THE BAD LEAK WILL SUCK IN THE CLEANER AND YOU OBIVIOUSLY HEAR YOUR IDLE CHANGE. (IF THIS DOES HAPPEN THEN WE KNOW WHERE ONE OF THE LOSSES OF HORSE POWER IS AT!!!!) DOOOOOO NOOOOT MESS WITH THE ENGINES TIMING. AT LEASTE NOT YET YOU CAN CAUSE YOUR CAR TO OVERHEAT AND POSSIBLY BLOW A HEAD GASKET IN THE PROCESS. There is so many items to fine tune first!